Peshawar

Nowhere else in the world is there a collection of Gandharan art more extensive than that of the Peshawar Museum, housed inside an attractive Victorian building (much of the Gandharan section was closed for renovations as of fall 2017, so do give a call prior to visiting).

The grounds of the beautiful Islamia College are open to the public, allowing anyone to enjoy the glory of its Victorian architecture and tranquil, green premises. It is a reputable academic institution, too, and one important enough to be displayed on the 1,000 Pakistani Rupees banknote.

The splendid Mahabat Khan Mosque is a fine example of 17th century Mughal architecture, with its ornate interior and courtyard water reservoir especially inviting to visitors. Entry is allowed, and private tour guides offer their services at a moderate fee.

The Sethi Mohallah area within the walls of Peshawar's old town contains rare examples of Central Asian-inspired architecture, constructed by the once prosperous trader family. The intricate woodwork and carvings, along with ornamental interiors and stained glass windows and ceilings, make for a fascinating look around. Keep in mind that most houses are now privately owned.

The imposing Bala Hissar Fort was once the seat of Afghan Durrani royals. Ownership was transferred to the Sikhs in the 19th century, with the fort eventually being rebuilt by the British to achieve its current look. Bala Hisar now houses the paramilitary forces of Pakistan, making it difficult to look inside, but an on-site museum is open to the public.

The Cunningham Clock Tower, known locally as Ghanta Ghar, is located just a few hundred meters from the city's busy centre, Chowk Yadgar. It was inaugurated in 1900 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of British Queen Victoria. The Kalyan Bazar road that runs from here is lined with interesting examples of old merchant dwellings.

Security is of concern at present and trips to the Khyber Pass are best left for a better time (check official safety advice at your planned time of travel), but do seize the opportunity when the opportunity comes. The pass has long been a gateway to South Asia (part of the ancient Silk Route), travelled by merchants, explorers and conquerors, the likes of Alexander the Great and Mughals, a channel that now connects Pakistan to the troubled Afghan territories via Torkham. Michni Checkpoint is as far as most visitors can count on getting.